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Yellow to Blue: Blending Plants, Tradition, and Sustainability with Ariane Shirvani

An Interview for Dutch Design Week 2024

Details, from “Yellow to Blue” (image credit: Studio Ariane Shirvani)

At the Dutch Design Week 2024 exhibition in Eindhoven, we discovered Ariane Shirvani’s "Yellow to Blue" project, which blends traditional dying techniques with eco-friendly methods. This innovative endeavor takes cues from natural plant dyes to offer a substitute for colourants in textiles, while also advocating for biodiversity and environmentally friendly farming approaches.

We managed to catch a moment with Ariane at the site of the exhibition, at BioArt Laboratories, for a short interview about her project.

Ariane’s project focuses on a wool rug coloured using two pigments from two different species of plants: Indigofera tinctoria (for the blue colour) and Prangos ferulacea (for the yellow colour). They are known for their use in countries like India and Iran, as well as regions in Africa and the Mediterranean for producing rich blue and yellow colours respectively.

By blending these pigments in the dyeing process of the rug-making project leads to a range of shades with unique patterns due to the organic dye methods employed by Ariane. The changing hues of the rug capture the essence of nature showcasing both its beauty and dynamic transformations, over time.

Ariane’s work is steeped in tradition and heritage that she holds close to her heart. When questioned about what drives her to specialize in plant-based colouring agents she shared her passion for upholding the age dye practices to her homeland of Iran. And these are methods that have stood the test of time for centuries.

She stressed the importance of bringing these techniques into the current era, particularly in response to the adverse environmental consequences associated with synthetic dyes.

Ariane emphasized the role played by the fashion and textile sectors in polluting water sources. She also expressed her aspiration to provide eco-friendly alternatives, and her work stands as proof of how traditional methods can be used to tackle such problems.

One significant aspect of "Yellow to Blue" involves its link to farming and biodiversity awareness. When utilizing flora such as Prangos ferulacea that prospers in its Mediterranean and Asian habitats, Ariane advocates for eco-friendly agriculture.

This plant, traditionally used as livestock feed, provides natural yellow-green dyes from its leftover material. Similarly, Indigofera tinctoria, a plant that grows in southern India and Iran, and parts of Africa and East Asia, serves not only as a source of indigo dye but also as a key crop for soil health due to its role in crop rotation.

These plants, in their natural environments, contribute to biodiversity, supporting insects and other local wildlife.

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Ariane’s dedication to sustainability goes beyond the colours she uses in her textile pieces. She makes an effort to keep her methods eco-friendly by growing plants in their habitats rather than in greenhouses where they may not thrive as well due to climate differences.

This approach mirrors her belief in working with nature instead of trying to dominate it while creating biological pigments that are not only environmentally responsible but also visually appealing.

Yarn Sample (image credit: Studio Ariane Shirvani)

When asked about the future of her research, Ariane revealed that "Yellow to Blue" is just the beginning. She plans to expand her study to include around 20 different plants, exploring the rich diversity of bio-pigments they can produce.

While this is currently a slow process due to the challenges of connecting with farmers and dye manufacturers, Ariane remains dedicated to scaling her work. She hopes to eventually collaborate with larger industries interested in sustainable design, though she is content to continue developing her project at her own pace for now.

Hand-knotted wool rug (image credit: Ariane Shirvani)

Ariane’s work not only embodies the possibilities of bio-pigments in design but also serves as a model for how traditional knowledge can inform and enhance contemporary practices. By combining ancient techniques with a focus on sustainability and biodiversity, she offers a vision of a future where craftsmanship, ecology, and beauty go hand in hand.

We extend our heartfelt thanks to Ariane for generously sharing her time and insights with us, offering our readers a glimpse into her practice. To explore more of her work, visit Studio Ariane Shirvani’s website and follow her on social media.

Her work Yellow to Blue at DDW24 will be shown from 19th October until 27th October 2024, Strijp T+R area, BioArt Laboratories, Oirschotsedijk 14-10, 5651 GC Eindhoven.